茶人專欄｜良心茶遊記 (四十二）：滇藏天塹虎跳峽（下）-中國茶文化國際交流協會

茶人專欄｜良心茶遊記 (四十二）：滇藏天塹虎跳峽（下）

2024-11-30 07:43

<p style="margin-bottom:27px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px"><img alt="224426_GxVJd9.jpeg" src="https://www.chineseteaculture.hk/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/137739/20240602_225619_KFtARJ.jpeg" style="width: auto;"></p> <p style="margin-bottom:27px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; text-align:center"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-family:mp-quote,-apple-system-font,&quot;system-ui&quot;,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:20px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:0.578px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; orphans:2; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; text-align:left; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px"><strong style="box-sizing:border-box !important; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto"><span style="box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#ff6827; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">（四十二）滇藏天塹虎跳峽（下）</span></strong></span></p> <p style="width:auto">虎跳峽以雄、奇、險、峻著名，尤以「險」聞名天下。兩岸高山聳峙，群峰插雲，谷坡陡峭，巨石壁立。南岸（東）為玉龍雪山，終年披雲戴雪，銀峰插天，主峰海拔5,596米，臨峽一側山體陡峭，幾乎是絕壁，無路可尋。山腰怪石察峨，古藤盤結，山腳壁立，直插江底；北岸（西）為哈巴雪山，山勢崢嶸突兀，猶如刀砍斧削，主峰海拔5,369米。山腰間有台地，山腳為陡峻懸崖。西岸山峰，高出江面3,000米以上。兩岸虎嘯猿啼，狼豹出沒，陣陣風過，彷彿餓虎剛跳過去，還把威風凜凜的長嘯留在澗底。金沙江水被玉龍、哈巴兩大雪山夾峙，峽谷與江面相對高差達3,900米以上，是世界上最深的峽谷之一。長江三峽的江面與峰頂高差僅1,500米；美國的地獄峽谷最大高差也僅2,400米，虎跳峽的深邃，由此可見！上峽口海拔1,800米，下峽口海拔1,630米，平均海拔高度1,800米 。最高海拔大約2,670米，最低處海拔1,000米左右，高低落差非常大，任何落下去的物體都會在一瞬間變成齏粉。千米深度的峽谷寬度僅60至80米，最窄處約30餘米。</p> <section contenteditable="false" data-arttype="img_1" data-attr="[{&quot;img_link&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;lnk_wrap&quot;,&quot;link&quot;:[{&quot;val&quot;:&quot;&quot;}]}},{&quot;img_border&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}},{&quot;border_color&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;#dddddd&quot;}},{&quot;image_scale&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;100&quot;}}]" data-insertafter="true" data-readonly="true" style="margin:27px 0;"> <section class="atrWidget widget_img_1 addTools" data-ratio="custom" data-slectratio="1,1.5,1.3333,1.7778,1.6,custom" data-uploadimage="1" data-viewmode="0"> <section class="j_sortable"> <section class="sortItem"><a href="javascript:;" style="display: block;text-align:center;" target="_blank" title=""><img alt="081353_2vG36n.jpeg" class="j_img_border j_border_color j_scale_img" data-bigsrc="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/20241130_081752_Vrq3yW.jpeg" data-default="/resource/img/widgets/article/default/img_1.png" src="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/20241130_081752_KSaQCJ.jpeg" style="border: none;" width="100%"></a></section> </section> </section> <section class="desWrap" contenteditable="true" style="text-align: center;font-size: 14px;color:#999;padding-top: 6px;"> <p class="imgdes isplaceholder" placeholder="圖片描述，不輸入則不顯示">波濤洶湧澎湃的虎跳峽</p> </section> </section> <p style="width:auto">兩側峭壁岩石為片岩和大理岩。被擠壓、撕碎的山石裸露着傷口。由於山岩的斷層塌陷，造成無數石樑跌坎，加之兩岸山坡陡峻，岩石壁立，山石風化，常有山崩巨石滾落谷底江中，形成礁石林立，犬牙交錯，險灘密布。致使江流湍急，瞬息萬變。不少段落的流速達每秒6至8米。急流像斬關奪隘的猛虎，氣壯山河，勢不可擋。奔騰氣勢之浩蕩，「洶湧澎湃」已難以貼切其壯美。或漩渦漫捲，飛瀑轟鳴，聲震山谷，驚心動魄。或狂馳怒號，石亂水激，霧氣空濛。撞碎的浪花閃現出七色的彩虹。枯水期水深4至5米，豐水期水深9至10米。在約20公里長的峽谷中，有險灘21處，高達10多米的跌坎7處，江流連續下跌7個陡坎，短距離中就有216米落差，平均每公里14米。水勢洶湧，聲聞數里。當地老人稱，在古代，虎跳峽地區曾是人不能靠近，鳥不敢迴翔的地方。虎跳峽天下險，但「險」中蘊藏着奪人心魄的壯美，吸引了無數勇敢者到此尋勝探險。上世紀三十年代，美國著名人類學家洛克曾三次遊歷虎跳峽，並租用飛機從空中拍攝照片，獲得大量資料，使虎跳峽聞名於世。</p> <section contenteditable="false" data-arttype="img_1" data-attr="[{&quot;img_link&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;lnk_wrap&quot;,&quot;link&quot;:[{&quot;val&quot;:&quot;&quot;}]}},{&quot;img_border&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}},{&quot;border_color&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;#dddddd&quot;}},{&quot;image_scale&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;100&quot;}}]" data-insertafter="true" data-readonly="true" style="margin:27px 0;"> <section class="atrWidget widget_img_1 addTools" data-ratio="custom" data-slectratio="1,1.5,1.3333,1.7778,1.6,custom" data-uploadimage="1" data-viewmode="0"> <section class="j_sortable"> <section class="sortItem"><a href="javascript:;" style="display: block;text-align:center;" target="_blank" title=""><img alt="081042_SvShDR.jpeg" class="j_img_border j_border_color j_scale_img" data-bigsrc="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/20241130_081752_1D3Bvm.jpeg" data-default="/resource/img/widgets/article/default/img_1.png" src="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/20241130_081752_3379m3.jpeg" style="border: none;" width="100%"></a></section> </section> </section> <section class="desWrap" contenteditable="true" style="text-align: center;font-size: 14px;color:#999;padding-top: 6px;"> <p class="imgdes isplaceholder" placeholder="圖片描述，不輸入則不顯示">虎跳峽極為險峻</p> </section> </section> <p style="width:auto">我國著名彝族將領張沖生前為考察開發虎跳峽水利資源，9次穿越虎跳峽。張沖將軍原為雲南王龍雲部下，曾擔任國民黨新三軍軍長、第二路軍總指揮，1946年到延安加入了中國共產黨，新中國成立後曾任全國政協副主席。他於1980年10月在北京逝世前遺囑將骨灰撒在金沙江虎跳峽。張沖將軍的豪放令雄奇的虎跳峽在悲壯中增添了豪氣。1986年9月，中國洛陽長江漂流隊、中國科學長江考察漂流隊首漂虎跳峽成功，但洛陽隊孫志嶺在滿天星灘遇難，四川《青年世界》雜誌記者萬明也在此次採訪中以身殉職。他們將悲壯的魂魄賦予了虎跳峽。</p> <p style="width:auto">大具壩子緊接着虎跳峽的尾部即下虎跳，金沙江進入大具境內，自西向東北橫切而過，江流把群山橫刀切開，左邊是哈巴雪山，右邊是玉龍雪山。大具壩子在玉龍縣東北角，南連麗江古城白沙鎮，西南與玉龍縣龍蟠鄉毗鄰，西與香格里拉市三壩納西族鄉隔金沙江相望。三壩鄉在香格里拉東南部，境內山高谷深，地勢西北高，東南低，三面群山一面臨江。大具和三壩鄉同處在三座大山的環繞之中。虎跳峽製造的天塹，千百年來阻隔了兩岸的往來交流。由於大具壩子在虎跳峽下虎跳的下游，隨着海拔的降低，在虎跳峽中一路咆哮的江水慢慢平緩下來，再無慣常的肆意翻滾、氣勢洶洶的面目，倒有幾分被關進籠子裏的馴服。江面少了兇險，多了空曠。進入大具壩子，平靜的金沙江水更變得清幽淡雅，呈現「野渡無人舟自橫」的意境。 因此大具境內的金沙江段很早就有渡口，可以行船。據記載，大具是歷史上納西族遷徙到麗江一帶最早的棲息地之一，已有上千年的歷史。</p> <section contenteditable="false" data-arttype="img_5" 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class="swiper-slide"><img alt="082121_dM6esd.jpeg" data-bigsrc="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/additional/20241130_082134_Dvxb0e.jpeg" data-default="/resource/img/widgets/article/default/img_5_small.png?v=1" src="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/additional/20241130_082134_E9CGwr.jpeg"></div> </div> <div aria-disabled="true" aria-label="Previous slide" class="swiper-button-prev" role="button" tabindex="-1">&nbsp;</div> <div aria-disabled="false" aria-label="Next slide" class="swiper-button-next" role="button" tabindex="0">&nbsp;</div> </div> </section> </section> <p style="width:auto">古時大具與對岸香格里拉三壩鄉之間的渡口是茶馬古道要津。大具的金沙江古渡和鐵索橋在不同的歷史時期都發揮了重要的作用，不僅維繫着滇川藏交界地區的康巴藏族和白族、納西族以及漢族等民族之間的商貿文化交流，而且成為原大麗江地區畜牧生產區與農耕生產區的紐帶。過去儘管在上虎跳至中虎跳也有在岩壁上開鑿的茶馬古道，但實在太過兇險，因而很多馬幫還是不惜繞道到下虎跳的大具古渡過江。除了小船渡江外，不少運送茶葉的商隊常採用「革囊」渡江。革囊渡江可以用革囊承載木筏，同時讓人馬和茶葉等貨物漂浮過江。比用那時的小船划槳渡江，既裝載更多，也相對更加安全。據說馬幫革囊渡江時，常有茶葉被金沙江水打濕。打濕的茶葉經過近半年運到西藏時，由於高溫高濕而加速發酵。茶商們一開始都將這種發酵的茶葉低價處理，但讓茶商們意想不到的是，這種途中發酵的普洱茶竟越來越受歡迎，因為它的口感更為柔和，香氣更為濃郁。後來這種茶成為了有名的黑茶（熟普）。</p> <section contenteditable="false" data-arttype="img_1" data-attr="[{&quot;img_link&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;lnk_wrap&quot;,&quot;link&quot;:[{&quot;val&quot;:&quot;&quot;}]}},{&quot;img_border&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}},{&quot;border_color&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;#dddddd&quot;}},{&quot;image_scale&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;style_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;100&quot;}}]" data-insertafter="true" data-readonly="true" style="margin:27px 0;"> <section class="atrWidget widget_img_1 addTools" data-ratio="custom" data-slectratio="1,1.5,1.3333,1.7778,1.6,custom" data-uploadimage="1" data-viewmode="0"> <section class="j_sortable"> <section class="sortItem"><a href="javascript:;" style="display: block;text-align:center;" target="_blank" title=""><img alt="082711_XE654c.jpeg" class="j_img_border j_border_color j_scale_img" data-bigsrc="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/20241130_082825_LUdbh0.jpeg" data-default="/resource/img/widgets/article/default/img_1.png" src="/data/uploads/ctciea_AL170_20240312152816_b3c9/images/article_component/140932/20241130_082825_ZHqBVC.jpeg" style="border: none;" width="100%"></a></section> </section> </section> <section class="desWrap" contenteditable="true" style="text-align: center;font-size: 14px;color:#999;padding-top: 6px;"> <p class="imgdes isplaceholder" placeholder="圖片描述，不輸入則不顯示">大具古渡</p> </section> </section> <p style="width:auto">大具渡口一帶曾經十分興旺，但隨着茶馬古道逐漸消失，特別是原大麗江地區一分為三，形成現今麗江市、迪慶藏族自治州和怒江傈僳族自治州等多重分割的行政區劃格局，大具古渡不斷衰落，建於其上的大具鐵索橋逐漸荒廢以至被徹底拆除，最後只有擺渡人的木船，維持下虎跳兩岸民眾及其社會、經濟、文化的聯繫。木船動力不足，只能從上游發船隨波逐流到下游靠岸，再以人力拉到上游，往返如是，形成一個「X」形的路線，擺渡非常辛苦。大具對岸的三壩鄉等地由於南下過江困難，經常遭大雪阻隔和高海拔路段缺氧之害。兩岸漢族、藏族、白族和納西族四個民族間的共同體意識不斷淡化。2013年大具壩子下虎跳段建了新渡口。新渡口有了內燃機渡船，一次能渡數十噸物資，也能接駁小型貨車過江。後來政府又在虎跳峽上游修建了一座座鋼橋、水泥橋、高速公路橋、鐵路橋，交通愈發便捷，帶動旅遊業爆發式增長，虎跳峽徒步路線受到國內外熱捧。大具又火起來了。</p> <section contenteditable="false" data-arttype="img_5" data-attr="[{&quot;batch_upload&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;batch_upload_wrap&quot;,&quot;val&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;options&quot;:{&quot;selector&quot;:&quot;.j_img5_batch_upload&quot;,&quot;ratio&quot;:&quot;1.6&quot;,&quot;slectRatio&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;nocrop&quot;:false,&quot;multiple&quot;:true,&quot;is_additional&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;resizeHeight&quot;:&quot;437&quot;}}}]" data-insertafter="true" data-notaddwidget="true" data-readonly="true" style="margin:27px 0;"> <section class="atrWidget widget_img_5"> 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font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px">&nbsp;專欄作者簡介</span><br> <span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">張國良先生是第十、十一屆全國政協委員；</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">中國茶文化國際交流協會執行會長；</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">香港新聞工作者聯會會長；</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">香港作家聯會監事長；</span><span style="box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; outline:0px; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">雲南普洱茶十大傑出人物。</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">曾任香港文匯報董事長、社長；</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">新華社秘書長；</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">新華社香港分社總</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">編輯及新</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">華社亞太總分社社長；</span><span style="background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box !important; color:#222222; font-family:system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,&quot;PingFang SC&quot;,&quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;,&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:15px; letter-spacing:0.544px; margin:0px; max-width:100%; overflow-wrap:break-word !important; padding:0px; width:auto">新華社香港分社改名為中央政府駐港聯絡辦後，曾兼任新華社香港特別行政區分社社長 </span>。</p>